The problem Ive always had with that is that its a relatively messy method with allot of lubricant getting onto the housing of the stabilizer, a non issue if a softer lube like 205g0 is used but problems arise when a harder lube such as a dielectric grease or similar is used. A harder lube has a chance of seeping between the housing and the slider of the stabilizer which will make the function of the stabililzed key very sluggish. Another problem is getting the amount of lubricant consistant on the wire when dipping into the lubricant and then making sure most of is goes into the stabiliser slider. Part of the reason for putting off the act of maintaining the Speedplays for so long is that the cost of the official Speedplay grease gun seemed so prohibitively expensive. What cant be seen clearly in Figure 4 is that both sides of the wire is being injected with the grease so as much of the empty space is being filled. Here is a sound test the lubed stabilizer versus an unlubed stabilizer to compare, the keycap used is the ansi enter key from MT3 Serika. Precision is important when dispensing grease or oil because when exact amounts are not applied, it can lead to product performance issues. Too much grease tends to spread, affecting product quality, and too little grease can cause product failure. And when applications require high-speed dispensing or dispensing over uneven surfaces, EFD recommends jet valvesfor the greatest accuracy, within tight deposit tolerances.

Thermal Grease | Farnell UK Thermal Grease | Farnell UK

Fill the syringe with the chosen lubricant. In testing Ive tried to use Servisol silicone grease with not much success becasue of the difficulty with pushing the grease through the needle of the syringe. To remedy this issue I recommend a grease with a NLGI grade no greater than 2. When high-volume or highly accurate, repeatable outcomes are required, EFD recommends using needle, piston, or high-pressure valvesdepending on your application requirements. When the application requires even, consistent coverage of an area, EFD recommends using a spray valve system. Pretty simple really. You get a giant green syringe and a tube of grease. Which is red (and which you can replace when it runs out): I am now on the constant lookout for opportunities where precision greasing will give me a competitive advantage (both in my sporting and newly-resuscitated professional life). Now the syringe is prepped lets have a better look at the stabilizer slider to get a better idea of what needs to be filled with the grease/lubricant.Having removed the little screw that otherwise holds the grease within the pedal, I presented the grease gun to the hole and, er, let it rip.

Grease | Grease Guns | Screwfix

My main concern was achieving sufficient pressure to force the old grease through the pedal and out the other side. This proved not a problem. This particular evening I’d made a particular effort, once home, to prise myself immediately into my Lycra armour and get in an hour-long ride. TL;DR - Watch video in post, method works well to stop rattle. Is it a better way? Not really, dipping/painting the wire works just as well to stop rattle. Note - this method can definitely be used for a stabilizer that is already mounted to a keyboard for example a prebuilt board or if your stabilizers need retuning and you dont want to desolder. If you’re someone that greases brake and gear cables within their housings (there seems to be some debate as to whether you’re meant to), a syringe like this will give you the best chance of getting the lube at least in the general vicinity of the opening of the outer sheath. You Mentioned Lubing Speedplay Cleats?This photo might be something of an historical re-enactment… I was a bit too focused on greasing rather than photo-ing the first time round). Pro tip: keep plenty of kitchen roll – or your alternative cleaning towel of choice – to mop up the spent grease as it comes out. Even then, I found that more old grease came out on my next couple of rides (hence why it’s still there on these photos, a week after the actual greasing). I did get an awful lot of grease on the floor, on the wall behind me (having shot over my shoulder), on new jeans (I’m very pleased it missed my T-shirt as it was one of my favorites) and on the drive out the front of the garage (I was about 6 feet inside the garage).

A different way of lubing stabs : r/MechanicalKeyboards - Reddit A different way of lubing stabs : r/MechanicalKeyboards - Reddit

For those that can’t be arsed to watch it, the main elements are that you unscrew a little cover to an aperture on the side of the pedal. You then force new grease into this hole such that the old grease already in there is squeezed out the other side (being the bit around where the spindle goes into the pedal). On the second pedal though it just didn’t want to play. A very small amount of grease oozed out of the other side but it was gushing – POSITIVELY gushing out of the pedal on the side that I was trying to insert it. I got even more on the floor, my jeans, the wall and the drive.

The added resistance was no doubt helpful in supercharging my training effect, but not ideal if I’m trying not to wear down the pedal bearings. I’ve recently started working again after a three year hiatus (it appears that blogging, like crime, does not pay). A little dribble of lube all around the inner edge of the cleat (the circular bit that grips the pedal), wipe of the excess, and jobs a good ’un: Though this latter fear was mitigated by the knowledge that the amount of power I put through the pedals is unlikely to wear down bearings made of soap.)