later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?" It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”. Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in.

Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat…More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections.

I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

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It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… Clutching hot waxoil injector thingy, part filled with waxoil and mixed with very very warm white spirit I squirted and soaked the chassis blasting away, and also practising holding my breath as it went misty in the workshop. I managed to borrow a compressor and was finally able to properly get to all those internal areas. In this post I’ll go over how and where I waxoyled the van. Waxoyl should help stop water getting in to connectors and terminals, causing corrosion. I also put some on the battery terminals and the main chassis ground connection.

This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. Before I waxoyled inside the chassis members I set the compressor to maximum and sprayed out any dust and crap. It was all quite clean in here, otherwise I would have had to power wash it and wait weeks for it to dry. This gun has a screw thread that is designed to fit onto many popular undersealing products – except, for some reason, Waxoyl. I emptied out a tetrashutz tin and used that.

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Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water. some air in at 50psi, you should get a nice circular spary of waxoyl out of the nozzle, increase pressure and if you are getting a real lopsided spray pattern take the nozzle apart and Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid.