I had some PVC foam used for carpet underlay sitting around which I am going to use later for the skirt bumper. But what I did for this part was to cut out 6 diamond shapes, 3 peaces glued together, measured to fit snug inside both ends of the square tube to seal off the end, help form the slanted shape, and to help support the weapons (to be fitted later). You could of course use polystyrene or something similar. Cut the center axle so you have about 10cm's poking out the the top of the chest. Using a craft knife, carefully cut 4 evenly spaced slits straight down the length of the axle down to the chest section, and flatten out to create 4 fixing taps that the ring section will be attached to. Use a large drill bit (or a screwdriver then a craft knife, but this will be more difficult to do, but possible) and make two holes on the left and right sides of the head, about 3/4 of the way up, and insert the yellow plasticy tubey thingies which will form the "Luminosty dischargers" or ears that flash when a Dalek speaks. The yellow tubes I used were smaller on the top sealed end, and wider on the bottom making a nice tight fit. Starting from the front, and making sure you have the longest side of the front skirt panel facing forward, bend the top of the panel to make a 1cm tab and marry it up to the top and bottom base plates. Make a slight bend on the bottom of the panels so the fit flat to the side of the base covering the wheels. when your happy they fit right, glue in place (with the tabs sitting above the top plate), and use some clothes pegs to hold in place for a few minutes while the glue sets. Do the same for all other panels making sure the adjoining panel sides are the same size to the one your fitting. Leave the rear panel and 1 rear side panel off for now. (If panels are slightly too wide in places, trim to fit). when gluing the tabs to the top plate, you will want to trim off the corners of the tabs so they don't overlap and are all flat. Just to reiterate, these are not proper spec sizes, but what I came up with and used, which seemed to work quite well in the end.

All the wires for the lights and aerial should be connected and running through the center of every panel. You should have a good length of the center axle which will turn the head, poking through the top of the chest section. I should mention here that on a real Dalek, the ring section stays fixed to the chest section and only the actual head dome rotates. I went a little different with this as I didn't want the 4 wires coming from the eye stalk pulling to much on the housing, and I need room for the pulley system for the eye stalk. B. Cut and bear the ends of 4 lengths of the thin electrical wire almost twice the length of the disused marker pen.

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Using a pen, mark 5cm lengths on each side, top and bottom on each rod then, using a craft knife or some scissors, carefully cut down these marks to form 8 flaps, or tabs (4 top, 4 bottom), then put to one side for the moment. This fully functional radio controlled Dalek Ironside has full 360 degree movement control, a built in infrared combat system which allows you to use two Daleks… 76 8 Jul 2010 Character Infrared Battle Radio Controlled Dalek Using a craft knife of a drill, make 2 holes in the deodorant lid, 1 in the center, and another towards top center (as seen in the main photo). Pull the lens from the lens cover, feed through the center hole, glue the edges of the lens cover to the lid, wait for glue to set for a couple of hours. IMPORTANT. Waiting a couple of hours insures that glue fumes do not attach themselves to the lens itself, later obstructing the view. Then refit the lens (making sure the lens was the right way up before fixing in place, which I forgot to do at first, oops). What I then did was to glue a very small rubber gromit to the microphone hole, then gently pushed the mic in to place. The attention to detail is nothing short of crazy (but then Character Option have a habit of going that extra mile). Even before you switch it on (and hear the sounds and see how many different lighting effects it has) it looks like a work of art. Cut out a 3cm tall thin cardboard strip ( it can be done in 2 parts like the chest cover), cut out a small section to go around underneath the weapons panel, pipe some more grab adhesive around the bands and attach to the bottom part of the chest, and rub a little bit more over any joins.

Using the cereal box cardboard, cut out 8 small slats measuring 6.5cm x 3cm, and 14 slats 8cm x 3cm. I should mention here that it wasn't until later after I painted them, I realized that 3cm's was a little bit too wide as photos of other Daleks have about 16 long, thinner slats and about 6 short ones, so feel free to play around with the numbers. With the measurements I used, I ended up using 4 short slats and 7 large ones, which at the end didn't look too bad.

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Using some more cereal box cardboard, this will make the outer chest cover. No measurements here for this, but what I did was use a couple of sheets of scrap A4 paper, measured out 10 cm then cut out a shallow curve, placed it against the chest area, and trimmed off paper that was to high. Then make a cut out to go around the top and sides of the weapons panel. When I was happy with it, I used the paper cutout as a template and marked out 2 sections on the cereal box then cut them out. With the final rear panel, I wanted to make this into an inspection or maintenance panel so I could easily access the batteries. I simply covered the panel with duct tape, glued the tab to the top plate which will now act as a hinge, then trimmed off the bottom of the panel so the bottom sat just above the base. I will make a fastener using a small peace of Velcro for this later. You can also use the Dalek to guard a location - say for example you want to know if someone approaches your bedroom door. Simply place the Dalek outside your door and activate it. Once it's ready to accept your voice command, you simply say: "Guard location". Then, when anyone comes near, it will warn them to leave the area otherwise they will be exterminated. They have a couple of seconds to comply before it cries: "Exterminate!" and makes a firing sound. And, should you want to sneak past it you simply have to say: "Voice command override."

It even comes equipped with mood/anger mode. If you tap its head a little too much, or if its sensors detects something it doesn't like, it will move around exterminating everything close by until you get it to obey you again. Next you can either get out the remote control unit and use this as a remote control vehicle, or you can experience the Dalek's built-in voice activated operating modes. Doctor Who 12″ Remote “Asylum” Dalek (Toys r Us) – Weathered 12″ remote control Dalek . When the Doctor, Amy and Rory are captured and brought before the Parliament… 129 25 Oct 2013 Remote Control White 13″ Dalek Supreme To attach the head, apply some blobs of grab adhesive to the top of all 6 of the PVC foam supports and rest the head down on to them, applying a little pressure downward, insuring the head is on straight and even all the way around, then leave to set.The power switch and charging port for the camera is located on the side of the housing. I needed easy access to these so they were going to be facing the front. The eye stalk motor needed to be facing upward but towards the rear of the ring section (as seen in photo). I simply positioned the 2 parts together until I has happy with the placement, marked, and made 2 pilot holes through the motor screw holes into the camera housing, then screwed together using 2 small stubby screws. Get hold of the grab adhesive and squeeze out a thin piping along the outside of the supports (Only do half of the struts at a time) then carefully place the outer panel on to the struts, gently squeeze together, moving the panel if you need to before it sets. You will have a few minutes to do this before it does set. If (like I had) your 2 outer panels overlap, not to worry. Simply add a bit more adhesive and overlap them. Then finish off by rubbing a little more adhesive over the seams to make a smooth finish. Weapons panel details. The pizza boxes I used to fix the half spheres to, had a healthy coat of shiny gold paint. Shame to waste it, so with a craft knife, I cut out a small section and then very carefully cut the corrugate off to leave a thin sheet of card. I then cut out two 3 x 3cm squares and a 5 x 2cm rectangle. With the craft knife, I cut out two circles in the square cut outs the same circumference as the weapons, and a smaller rectangle in the 5 x 2cm peace, enough for the 4 LED's to fit inside. Then I simply super glued them in place. Done. A WORD OF WARNING just in case your not aware. Polystyrene and spray paint are not friends (As seen in the last photo). IMPORTANT NOTE. I placed the motor on a small length of wood with the newly made pulley wheel laying flat and below the motor cog. This was to prevent any excess glue running down the drive shaft and then seizing the motor.