The brandy is produced using a solera system. This is a system of fractional blending that consists of eight different tiers of American oak barrels that previously contained either Oloroso Sherry or Pedro Ximénez (PX)Sherry. PX is a very sweet, syrupy Sherry made from partially raisinated grapes. Each tier has an average of 400 barrels. The first seven tiers are called criaderas, and the bottom tier is called the solera. New bottlings are drawn from the oldest tier – the solera. Typically, up to one third or so of the brandy in the solera is removed each year. The liquid removed is replaced with brandy from the next tier (the seventh criadera) and that liquid, in turn, is replaced with liquid from the next tier (the sixth criadera). The liquid drawn from the youngest tier (the first criadera), is replaced with newly distilled spirit. This is a complex, layered aromatic brandy that offers up aromas of dried fruit, caramel, chocolate and hints of coffee bean. On the palate, there are flavors of dried red and stone fruit, along with marzipan and candied orange zest.

Chateau de Laubade is a historic estate that has producing Armagnac since the late 19th century. On the nose, the Armagnac exhibits aromas of rich, fatty bacon, along with notes of creamy custard, floral potpourri, cinnamon and roasted nuts. There are dried dark fruit notes, especially some prune, and some new saddle leather. Both characteristics are typical, especially of aged Armagnac. The brandy is very smooth, dry and delicate, offering notes of caramel, almonds and vanilla. There is also a version finished in dry oloroso casks, Lepanto Oloroso Viejo, and a version finished in Pedro Ximenez casks, Lepanto Pedro Ximenez. The latter is sweeter. Cardenal Mendoza Solera Spanish Brandy began when the company owners decided to create a brandy for themselves to enjoy. They wanted something unique and different, and certainly something high-quality. Word of this amazing brandy slowly began to make rounds, despite its private nature. Lepanto is the only brandy distilled in the city of Jerez from locally grown Palomino grapes, the same variety used to produce sherry. The brandy is double distilled in Charentais pot stills, originally from Cognac, and is aged in solera for an average of 12 years. The first nine years in barrels that previously contained Tío Pepe and a further three years in casks that previously held 30 YO sweetOlorosoMatusalem sherry.The Cognac is rich and powerful offering aromas of candied fruit, fragrant rose petal, accompanied by notes of dried orange zest and vanilla. On the palate, the Cognac offers up intense notes of wood spice and oak, along with dried fruit flavors and the typical rancio flavors of old leather and furniture wax. The spirits are matured for a minimum of 12 years in Fino sherry casks (ex-Tio Pepe) in a traditional solera system. Recent bottles seem to mention the age on the label but on my bottle this wasn’t the case. Keep in mind that there is a version at 36% ABV and another one at 40% ABV. I guess this is specific to the market you’re in and due to legal requirements or commercial strategy (same thing happens with their entry-level brandy Soberano). On the palate its sweet, with powerful flavors of dark raisins and dried figs, some herbal notes of dried tea and a hint of peppermint, along with orange marmalade and a bit of dark chocolate. The “date” of the solera is based on the year it was established. The barrels from which the saca is extracted would consist of a blend of brandy from each of the prior years that the solera has been maintained.

The profile offers an interesting mix of things, beginning with strong notes of toffee and roasted coffee on the nose. The palate opens with cashews, caramel, and marzipan that come together in a chewy, rich texture. Mid-palate brings pears, orange rinds, cinnamon, and a touch of tobacco and cigar. This leads into a mildly spicy finish. 4. Torres 30 Brandy Reserva Argonaut is a blend of eight different brandies produced from both pot stills and continuous stills, and ranges from 2 to 16 years in age. Unlike most old-world brandies, which are made predominantly from a handful of white grape varieties, Argonaut utilizes a variety of grapes, including Grenache, French Colombard and Muscat. Roughly one-quarter of the blend is made up of a 9 YO pot still brandy. Cardinal Mendoza is aged for an average of 15 years in a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. The brandy is named for Cardinal Don Pedro Gonzalez de Mendoza. The cardinal was an advisor to Ferdinand II and Isabel I, and was instrumental in persuading the Spanish monarchs to support Christopher Columbus’s first voyage to the new world. Brandy is a spirit distilled from fruit. Grapes, apples, pears, berries of all kinds—There is a wide variety of raw materials to choose from. Some brandies are left unaged. They are clear, intense distillates that show the character of fresh fruit. Many others are barrel-aged, where they transform into mellow, golden elixirs over time.This is similar to the Scotch whisky industry’s preoccupation a generation ago with kilts and bagpipes in marketing Scotch whisky. Spain’s brandy producers need to market their product to appeal to a more cosmopolitan buyer, while still preserving its essential Spanish character. The Best Spanish Grape Brandy/Brandy de Jerez went to Cardinal Mendoza Solera Gran Reserva produced by Bodega Sánchez Romate Hermanos in Jerez. Add the brandy, creme de cacao, and cream to a shaker with some ice and shake it well until it’s nice and cold.

The US historically had a long-standing tradition of brandy production. That tradition slowly waned over the last half century. American brandy was d0minated by four historic producers: Gallo’s E & J, Constellation’s Paul Masson, Heaven Hill’s Christian Brothers and Korbel. Together these four producers accounted for about 95% of American brandy sales. The rise of craft distillers, however, has shaken up this category, producing a renaissance of new styles and expressions in American brandy production. Spirit produced from column stills has to be between 70% and 94.8% ABV, and is termed “aguardiente.” Spanish brandy sales don’t have much traction outside of Spain and a handful of export markets in former Spanish possessions. In the US, it has a small but dedicated following. That’s unfortunate, because it really is an excellent product. Sanchez Romate, Cardenal Mendoza, Solera Gran Reserva, Brandy de Jerez Photo, courtesy Sanchez Romate

Lepanto Solera Gran Reserva (36%, González Byass, Brandy de Jerez)

The winner of the Best American Grape Brandy is Argonaut from Fat Thumb Brandy. Fat Thumb is produced at the McCall Distillery in Sanger, California, and is owned by E & J Gallo. Italy has a long-standing tradition of making brandies. Brandy is different from grappa, another Italian mainstay. Brandy is a distillate of wine made from whole grapes, while grappa is a distillate made from grape skins and the residue left in the fermentation tank after the wine has been made. Technically, the liquid produced from the grape skins is also considered a wine, although you wouldn’t want to drink it. On the palate, it’s heavy and creamy, with a pronounced palate weight and a mouth coating oiliness. It offers up flavors of baked apple and caramel apple, along with a bit of cherry syrup and some cinnamon, as well as roasted nuts and dried fruit. The finish is long, semi-sweet, with lingering dried fruit notes. Lepanto is the flagship brandy from González Byass. Its solera was established in 1896, although González Byass had been producing brandy since the 1840s.

As mentioned above, Lepanto Brandies are the only Brandy de Jerez made from 100% Palomino grapes grown in the Jerez regions. After vinification the wine is then double distilled in two Armagnac ‘Charentais’ or “pot” stills, which produce a fuller, richer spirit than column stills. Only thecentral part or heart of the alcohol spirit produced, discarding the heads and tails known as Holanda, is used. This is the purest and bes quality spirit.Pot still produced spirit must have an alcohol content (ABV) of between 40% and 70%. This spirit is known in the brandy trade as “holandas.” It is only distilled once, although there are a few producers who double distill. Torres is based in Penedès, in Catalonia. The Hors D’Age is an ultra-aged brandy, averaging 20+ years. It is based on Parellada and Ugni blanc grapes and is matured in French Limousine oak barrels. This is the most Cognac-like of the Spanish brandies, and far better priced. The brandy has a deep, rich color, offering notes of fresh grapes and ripe pears, along with raisins, dates and figs. There are additional notes of candied citrus, caramel, vanilla, cinnamon and other wood spices. The Torres 20 has won more than 69 awards in international competitions. Each extraction from the solera is called a saca. Up to a quarter of a barrel’s contents can be extracted at any one time. The brandy removed is replaced with brandy from the next oldest criadera until all of the criaderas have been filled. The youngest criadera is topped up with new spirit. Extractions can take place as often as every four months or as infrequently as once a year, or even once every two years.