Hard wax oils are very durable and provide good protection. You can use a polyurethane varnish or lacquer but with that you may compromise the look and feel of the table. The reason I like using hard wax oils is because they are made from non toxic, natural ingredients and are very easy to apply (unlike the traditional lacquers and varnishes). They are also hard-wearing and look very similar to the original finish applied by G-Plan and other mid-century teak furniture manufacturers (which would have been spray gun applied).

Simon's career began in furniture restoration in 1987. Leaving school at 16 and signing on as an apprentice French Polisher at Staverton joinery, he has accumulated over 30 years experience in the restoration of fine and antique furniture. In 1994 Simon opened the doors on the first Gilboy’s workshop at the Riverside in Staverton with financial and mentoring help from The Prince’s Trust. In 2015 after years of searching for a beeswax furniture polish that would befit the fine furniture Gilboys were restoring, Simon developed his own beeswax polish using only the very best of responsibly-sourced ingredients. Simon says, "My intention was not to compete with anyone on price, but to simply make the best beeswax polish it was possible to make". You can usually find Simon in the Gilboys workshops filming instructional how-to videos for the Gilboys YouTube channel, on help forums, or actively finding new ways to preserve the past for the future. Gilboys use Pure Gum Turpentine tapped from living pine trees. I think it is often mistakenly thought to have come from the petrochemical crude oil industry but it is actually made from distilled and refined pine resin. A good wax polish should have just the right content to provide a thin protective and sacrificial layer to the furniture, adding to the long term preservation and patination of it. This beeswax polishing kit contains everything you need to polish and protect the finish of your mid-century teak furniture:

Sand it again with 120 grit then use 180 grit and vacuum the dust away (ALWAYS IN THE DIRECTION OF THE GRAIN). Wipe over the surface with some methylated spirits, as I do in the video below. You're using the meths to allow you to see how the wood will look when it is sealed and finished. It will also show up any blemishes you may have missed. Invest in the enduring beauty of your wooden surfaces today with Gilboys Hard Wax Oil. For interiors that are as safe as they are stunning, there’s no better choice. Oil based polishes that are marketed as a maintenance or cleaning polish, that are intended to be used in the same way as a traditional wax paste polish, should also be very much avoided. In the same way pressurised liquid spray polishes are atomised at the nozzle, hand pumped bottles that contain a very diluted liquid oil work in the same way. The end result is a finish that looks like a piece of polished wood but actually underneath the finish are some visually unwanted repairs and marks.. It's a layered system in effect.

Sand the wood up through the sandpaper grades, From 180, 240 up to 320 grit. This will help when applying the wax. Having a fine sanded surface will prevent too much of the wax being absorbed forcing it to sit on the surface. A: The frequency with which you should reapply hard wax oil depends on factors such as mechanical wear, the level of use, and environmental conditions. Generally, it is recommended to reapply hard wax oil every few years or when the finish starts to show signs of wear. Your table has a 'full grain finish' meaning there are no textured, visible grain areas on the surface, it's completely smooth all over. Another benefit of using a hard wax oil is that you can easily re-apply it later on and it will refresh the finish without it looking over polished. You can also re-apply it over our wax polish. It's a win win win scenario as far as I can see. A durable, natural finish that looks good and is easy to apply by anyone. You don't have to just apply it the one time.The R scale runs from R9 to R13, where R9 is slippery when wet, and R13 the least slippery. Floor surfaces that are classified by the DIN 51130 standard as R9 (or in some instances R10) will be slippery when used in wet or greasy conditions. We would struggle to recommend a product because we knew that the ingredients were completely unknown and of such poor quality, also of unknown origin. As a nation we are all much more aware of where products and the ingredients come from, more so than ever before.

So mineral oil based polishes are fine for using on bare wood and on food preparation surface areas. The biggest mistake made when wax polishing is buffing the wax off straight after applying it.A good quality brand of wax polish will instruct you to leave the wax to dry on the surface before buffing. The wax needs to evenly coat the surface and dry. Once dry, the wax can be buffed to a soft sheen. You're not rubbing the wax off, you're buffing the wax cells smooth, so they all lie flat on the surface. This allows the light in, to reflect the beautiful wood, at the same time as acting as a naturally enhancing and sacrificial layer. If your tin or can of polish instructs you to apply and then buff after a few minutes or less, you really are doing no more than just wiping it on, and wiping it off. I go into more detail about why these brands recommend this ‘waste of your time’ later on in this article. Polishing With Beeswax: The Correct Way To Buff If you feel you need to clean it first you can wipe over the surface with a warm soapy cloth (washing up liquid) and dry it immediately with a dry piece of towelling. How Do I Clean Off The Old Wax Polish On My Furniture? This beeswax polishing kit contains everything you need to polish and protect the finish of your wood furniture:Perfect if you have one prize piece of wooden furniture or have two or three pieces of different types of wood. Apply the first coat: Using a brush or lint-free cloth, apply a thin coat of hard wax oil to the furniture, working in small sections and moving with the grain of the wood. Be sure to spread the finish evenly, avoiding drips and pooling

Surfaces that suffer long-term exposure to sunlight will often break down faster. This may lead to the surface coating losing its sheen and protective properties. In addition the wood itself will more than likely be bleached of colour.

Why do we wax wood? 

We started with organically-produced and humanely-harvested beeswax from local beekeepers that is triple-filtered and added the finest natural ingredients we possibly could: Apply the polish to manageable areas at any one time, A side of chest, a single leaf or plank of a dining table, one chair or a few drawers at a time. It’s very rewarding to do it this way. Do I Need To Clean My Furniture Before Applying Beeswax Polish?