The Basilica di San Marco sums up Venice – not just for its sublime beauty, but because it tells the often-overlooked history of La Serenissima. From temples and cemeteries to amphitheatres, arenas and aqueducts, Italy’s ancient past is writ large on the country’s landscape. There’s a long history of Italians moving abroad during the course of the 19th and 20th centuries, and still today, really. Many businesses are family-owned, having been passed down through the generations, while others have grown from modest origins to become global brands known for their classic designs and quality workmanship. Head to Turin’s northern hinterland to visit the Reggia di Venaria Reale 3, a sumptuous Savoy residence that inspired French rival Versailles.

The Leopard (Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, 1958) Historical novel evoking the social tremors that shook Sicily during Italian unification. So whether you’re after an idyllic cove framed by plunging cliffs or a sandy strip lapped by azure waters, you’ll find somewhere to suit your style. Puglia is a kaleidoscope of territories, ecosystems, and rhythms of life, hard for a single word to encompass.Revel in the dramatic coastal scenery that unfurls around you in Sardinia’s Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu 4. If you’re lucky, in the mountains you might catch sight of a chamois, ibex, golden eagle, peregrine falcon or even a Marsican brown bear (pictured). Do as the Romans do and head to the Castelli Romani 4 hills to feast on porchetta (boneless herbed roast pork) and other specialities at a fraschetta. Soar to the sound of music in Verona’s Roman Arena 3, the magnificent setting for the city’s annual opera festival.

But it’s all worth it to see something clever, unexpected or beautiful in a hidden corner of Milan, from a former factory to an ancient cloister. It really is the kind of place that rewards taking it slow, whether you’re kicking back at a waterfront table in Vernazza with a glass of wine in hand or listening to birdsong and resting your weary legs at an ancient sanctuary on a clifftop high above. Then reach out to Antonella Urbano, the horseback riding teacher who taught me how to ride when I was a kid.

I live in Bologna, where locals are conditioned to scoff at Modena, but my crush runs deep (many bolognesi have never even been!

The result is a remarkable series of imperial palaces, royal retreats, Renaissance mansions and aristocratic villas.Great accommodation options include ultra-stylish but authentic La Mala in Vernazza, charming beachfront Hotel La Spiaggia in Monterosso, cool and contemporary Hotel Marina Piccola in Manarola or the budget Ostello di Corniglia, one of only two hostels in the Cinque Terre. Many of them will point you to their favorite local restaurant and take the time to explain why their towns' panzerotto (fried pastry), tiedda (Bari's famous rice potatoes and mussels dish), or grape variety, are undoubtedly, and incontestably, the best. In the summer months, this region is a haven for swimming and boating, but it's super hot and super crowded. SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome (Mary Beard, 2015) Celebrity classicist brings ancient Rome to life in her authoritative history. If you look behind its picturesque small towns, though, you’ll find a beautiful country and people that are real and complex.

This is thanks to the scirocco, a hot southerly wind that blows in from North Africa bringing sand from the Sahara Desert.Away from the big cities, Italy’s provincial towns and smaller centres are a rich source of hidden masterpieces and historic finds. The Greeks and Etruscans paved the way, but it was the Romans who left the biggest mark, producing monumental buildings, major highways and sophisticated urban infrastructures. In February and March, the ski slopes in the Valle d’Aosta are stunning and there’s no shortage of opportunities for organising ski trips. Island-hop across the Gulf of Naples 5, from chic, day-trip favourite Capri to laid-back Procida and thermal Ischia, the largest and most developed island.