If you are looking for a "perfect" finish from the router, it's not likely to happen without an absolutely perfect setup, and a lot of skill. The answer to your question is no, this is not a good idea :-) Flattening a board is safe, repeatable and not dangerous if done with a router sled and it isn't just normally done that way, it's almost universally done that way. They make them small enough that they can work well with a typical router and sled system that many folks use for slab flattening as well as for those of us with modest CNC machines to do the same. Although that is at least 20 years old and second hand, it leaves a better finish than the brand new powerpkus did. The spinning action of router cutters allows for the design and creation of shapes within a variety of materials.

Reiterating what has been said and adding a bit to bring all the tips together in one place: Your guide rails have to be very straight, parallel to each other, and well anchored in place.I would strongly suggest using gripper pads and guiding the work piece from above, rather than the easier (and more tempting) way of holding the work piece by it's edges. I looked at the Woodpecker jig at a woodworking show in January and it looked pretty well thought out and engineered. The 103 third parties who use cookies on this service do so for their purposes of displaying and measuring personalized ads, generating audience insights, and developing and improving products.

I have various standard straight router bits but am wondering if there are specific bits designed for flattening a board? I can tell you from experience these are as robust and heavy duty as they come and the motor is 3HP which is great for heavy operations like surfacing or panel raising in the router table. The idea as follows: I attach two parallel bars to the piece I'm going to flatten, then I lift up my bit a little, start a router and move the piece over it. Build up with heat resistant Teflon coating which can reduce resin build-up for fast and easy cleaning. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others.This would put a fairly small limit to your work piece, being about a quarter in area than your router table size (or at most half if you rotate the work piece around). Also, like Nathan said, everything needs to be rigid and fixed against movement for your slab and your side rails. They were shimmed flat and co planer and attached with screws into a solid core door on top of my outfeed table.

International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions. I have since gotten rid of the Triton and gone back to my Milwaukee routers plus one Makita RP2301FC plunge router which I really like.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. When I was in an industry that hired lots of stuff, the going rate, for VERY expensive kit, (and the cheapest) was around 1% of the capital cost per day. If you can, take a knowledgeable mate with you when you hire, to check the machine out before you accept it.