RovyVon Aurora A8 G4 Keychain Flashlight USB C Rechargeable, 5000K, High CRI, 420 Lumens EDC Flashlight Mini Size with Multifunctional Sidelight, Best for Gift/Emergencies/Camping(365nm+Red+White)

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RovyVon Aurora A8 G4 Keychain Flashlight USB C Rechargeable, 5000K, High CRI, 420 Lumens EDC Flashlight Mini Size with Multifunctional Sidelight, Best for Gift/Emergencies/Camping(365nm+Red+White)

RovyVon Aurora A8 G4 Keychain Flashlight USB C Rechargeable, 5000K, High CRI, 420 Lumens EDC Flashlight Mini Size with Multifunctional Sidelight, Best for Gift/Emergencies/Camping(365nm+Red+White)

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Description

Hard to say if there’s LVP but the stepdowns mean you’ll definitely notice when the battery is low. That said, I’m fairly sure lipos are more resilient (or at least safer) when discharge is low. There are two different versions of the Rovyvon A8x, the difference being the Aux LEDs. One has amber, red, and blue LEDs. The sample I have is the “UV” model which has UV, red, and neutral white aux LEDs.It’s great to have the option of a neutral white LED.It’s unfortunately not high CRI, but is pleasant nonetheless.I’ve found that the super floody, side-firing, neutral white LED is pretty handy for nighttime reading and low-light table-top illumination.Measurements for the white aux LED are: White Lantern High (32 Lumen, 6hrs)- Decent casting of light, good for camp kitchen or hanging out in the tent. Good for night hiking or running.

The Aurora A8 Pro was inspired by the demand of a compact, portable UV-C light, as small as your keys. Front LED uses dual-band wavelength UV-C (270nm) and UV-A (390nm-400nm) from Seoul Semiconductor, and the glass is quartz, the reflector is CNC-machined brass smooth reflector. For the front light, it is UV-C light. All the modes are easy to get to and navigate with the single button. It only takes a minute to get the hang of it, unlike many competitors. For reference, here’s a baseline shot, with all the room lights off and almost nothing hitting the sensor. Also, here’s the light with the worst PWM I could find. I’m adding multiple timescales, so it’ll be easier to compare to the test light. Unfortunately, the PWM on this light is so bad that it doesn’t even work with my normal scale, which is 50 microseconds (50us). 10ms. 5ms. 2ms. 1ms. 0.5ms. 0.2ms. In a display faster than 0.2ms or so, the on/off cycle is more than one screen, so it’d just (very incorrectly) look like a flat line. I wrote more about this Ultrafire WF-602C flashlight and explained a little about PWM too. User Interface and Operation What’s perhaps most surprising about this light is just how bright and flood like the optic itself is. And if you couple that with the size and battery light, it makes for an extremely compelling light for just about anyone. Lux was measured by a UNI-T UT383 BT at 5 meters. Lumens were measured in a homemade lumen tube using a TSL2591 sensor, calibrated with a Maukka calibration light. The temperature was monitored with a MLX90614 IR temperature sensor.And here’s the light beside my custom engraved TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 light. I reviewed the aluminum version of that light in both 35 and 70 formats. UV Lantern (3hrs) - Interesting novelty, maybe you can find a cool bug or spot a fake ID with it, not too useful for me. There are a bunch of versions of this series of RovyVon lights. But the A28 in specific is available with Cree XP-L (likely HD) and Nichia 219c. There are also three secondary options: Red/UV, and White/UV, and White/Red. What you see here is the Nichia 219c Red/UV copy. Price Measurement disclaimer: Testing flashlights is my hobby. I use hobbyist-level equipment for testing, including some I made myself. Try not to get buried in the details of manufacturer specifications versus measurements recorded here; A certain amount of difference (say, 10 or 15%) is perfectly reasonable. What’s Included The Rovyvon A8x UV uses a built-in 330 mAh lithium-polymer (LiPo) battery.It is not user accessible nor serviceable.If you manage to wear out your battery, reach out to Rovyvon if it’s within the warranty period.

Keychain lights are usually tiny, however, the Rovyvon A8x UV is particularly tiny.It’s just as short as my shortest AAA light, the Olight i3E EOS, though it is a little bit wider.While the A8x is very smooth, its flattened sides prevent it from rolling around. There is a single e-switch towards the head of the light.It’s a bit on the small side and appears to be made of metal and is coated in a layer of silicone, presumably for water resistance. I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint! Conclusion What I like That’s different from the original too, which had a much bigger and fairly prouder switch. I have no complaints about the upgrade, except I wish they’d thrown a metal (or at least hard) switch cover on there. Measurement disclaimer: Testing flashlights is my hobby. I use hobbyist-level equipment for testing, including some I made myself. Try not to get buried in the details of manufacturer specifications versus measurements recorded here; A certain amount of difference (say, 10 or 15%) is perfectly reasonable.And what I ended up with is a light that surprises me in almost every way almost always in a good way. This light comes with two main LED options and two auxiliary LED options. I chose the Nichia 219C with Amber/Red/Blue as my setup. Features I would have really liked a Moonlight shortcut.Other than that, I can live with this for a keychain light My review copy has Nichia 219c, which is a high CRI variant. I’m very pleased this is an option both because I’d prefer the high CRI (90+) and also I think XP-G3 is just really, really bad. So I have Nichia, and I think you’ll be happier with it too. The situations where I wouldn't rely on this light are if I intend to hike or need light for many hours in the dark, or use it outside in a storm. It has enough battery life that it could be used all night in an emergency, and it did do fine in light rain, (but was ultimately killed by the washing machine) so I think it could work in a jam, but if I know that heavy storms, long hours hiking in darkness, or midnight evacuations are likely then I'm bringing a more robust headlamp.

My emitter of choice is the Nichia 219c, which is High CRI (90+). The other option is a Cree XP-L. The emitter is under a TIR optic, which I think has seen some changes since the A23 review – see the beamshots of the two for comparison purposes. A23 beamshot link. IP66 "equivalent" leaves something to be desired. The washing machine is a bit of a torture test for it, but seeing that it is so small it's not hard to imagine that this scenario happens all the time so it would be nice if it was more waterproof.The main LED produces more of a spot than a flood. I put matte tape on the lens to act as a diffuser, which helped, but for general purpose I prefer more of a flood. USB Rechargeable: plug in a micro USB cable and charge away. There’s no batteries and the life from the built in battery is outstanding. Throughout the entire Aurora line-up, Rovyvon offers two emitter options: a cool white, 70-CRI Luminus SST20 and a neutral white, 90-CRI Nichia 219C. Like most LED choices, it’s a trade off between quantity (lumens) and quality (color rendering). In my A2 review, I tried out the cool white SST20 and it’s just like it sounds on paper. This A5, though, showed up sporting the 5000K 90-CRI Nichia 219C LED. This Nichia looks lovely. If you dig neutral CCTs and/or High CRI, this is the emitter choice for you.

UV light is pretty useless for my purposes. Personally I'd rather have a green LED for looking at maps in bed.

Features

Almost all flashlights that are sold are made of aluminum, at least most of the lights worth talking about. You know what material Rovyvon doesn’t offer in the 3rd Generation Aurora series? Aluminum. I’m not going to complain about that, I like to see things get switched up. The materials offered are polyamide, stainless steel, titanium, GITD (glow in the dark) polycarbonate, and clear polycarbonate. Being the A5, this model happens to be the GITD Green polycarbonate version. The bezel, though, is stainless steel. ANSI FL1 standards: The runtime is measured until the light drops to 10% of its initial output (30 seconds after turning on). This does not mean that the flashlight is not usable anymore. The last column shows how long the light actually works till it shuts off. If there is a + symbol, it means that the test was stopped at that particular point, but the light was actually still running. This happens on certain occasions, with certain drivers, firmware, or batteries. Peak beam intensity and beam distance measurements The A28 and A29 are the same aside from the tritium slots on the metal body. I still have never installed a single tritium in any light, ever. Should I do this??



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